Saturday, January 12, 2013

The Awesomeness of Japan: Kansai

Back in the fall, I embarked on a brief adventure in one of the places I've most wanted to visit since coming to Japan: the Kansai region. This area includes Kyoto (temple and shrine central), Osaka (um...huge city), and Nara (more temples, and a huge park full of roaming deer). I have no concrete statistics on this, but I'm pretty sure this is the most touristed part of Japan, besides Tokyo. And for good reason - Kansai is just full of awesome things.

Nara park
So many deer, wandering free! The deer are believed to be sacred. You can see the deer, pet the deer, be the deer (what?), buy special senbei (crackers) to feed the deer,  photograph the deer, run away from deer who want your deer senbei and are trying to bite your leg...
my first deer sighting

Buddhas and deer. That's what they've got here.





Ok deer, this is getting awkward, now I'm just feeling attacked...

"No more! You ate them all!" Nikki is exasperated by the deer.
This park is also home to what I believe is the world's largest wooden structure - Todaiji, a temple housing a giant buddha.



This deer wants to buy some deer-themed souvenirs

Ninja
Shiga, a more rural prefecture, is home to the Shiga Ninja Village, which may not be quite as interesting as it sounds (unless you're under 10 years old), though it does make for some memorable photographs.
There are seven ninjas in this picture. Can you spot the untrained one?

Nikki the Ninja

Bet you didn't know that scroll was a secret door!

Masked ninja
 We almost accidentally signed up to participate in the World Ninja Competition, which just so happened to be held that day. The event we watched involved the talented ninjas racing around a course, scaling this wall, jumping over another roof, and edging along a narrow ledge (only about one foot off the ground). It also seemed to involve lots of bright, ridiculous, un-ninja-like outfits.


She takes her craft seriously.
Okonomiyaki
A delicious Japanese-style "pancake", famous in Osaka, made by mixing any toppings you like (meat, seafood, veggies, kimchi, cheese, potato, mochi etc.) with a batter and cooking it up over a grill at your table. Usually it's topped with lots of dark brown sauce and mayo, though we asked them to go easy on the mayo. Side note: one of the biggest food-related surprises when I came to Japan? I had no idea Japan was so into mayonnaise! They dump that stuff on just about anything - okonomiyaki, salad, fried stuff, pizza...ehhhhhh. Weird.


Oh-saka!
Despite such a brief time in the city, I liked the vibe better than Tokyo. It seemed a bit more laid-back, and vibrant. Though it's hard to say in such a short time. We wandered around Dotonbori, one of the busiest areas, full of restaurants and with lots of shopping and bars nearby. It was loud and almost chaotic, with so many people milling around, hundreds of bikes parked in the middle of the street, giant crabs and sushi and gyoza hanging above the storefronts, and people yelling and handing out flyers for their respective eateries.
tiny ramen shop
Popluar kushikatsu restaurant (fried stuff on a stick). Featuring a frightening representation of the chef, holding a TV showing a video of the chef. So meta.


While we were photographing the canal, this Japanese guy lingered awkwardly. Eventually, in Japanese - "is it ok if I take your picture? Is it ok if I stand in the picture? Is it ok if I stand in the middle? Is it ok if I put my arm around you?"

Just chilling.



Cool Kyoto temples and shrines

Heian shrine



The gardens of Ginkakuji (the Silver Pavilion, which is not actually silver)

Yasaka pagoda


This is the first pagoda I've seen in Japan that you can go inside. We climbed the pagoda. It smelled of cedar and had very rickety ladders.

Kiyomizudera - built without a single nail




Kinkakuji (the Golden Pavilion, which was definitely gold)


A famous rock garden at Ryoanji - I'm pretty sure it represents something important about life. You're meant to sit and look at the stones and ponder.
My favourite shrine in all of Japan - Fushimi Inari



spot the fox




Crooked, narrow streets of Kyoto




Maiko/Geisha
I am pretty sure the "maiko" we spotted weren't real Maiko - on account of them being out in the middle of the day, and taking pictures of each other at tourist sports, and checking their phones while they walked. But still.



Arashiyama Monkey Park
The best part is: the monkeys aren't in a cage; the humans are, watching them from behind wires as they roam free!









Nikki, making some friends


Thursday, December 20, 2012

Girl Talk and Gossip: the Best Parts of my Job


There are days when it's hard to feel stimulated and meaningful at work. Days when I'm scheduled to go to English classes which include lengthy explanations of grammar, in Japanese, and only a brief vocabulary practice in which I pull out my best English pronunciation and flashcard-flipping techniques.

Thankfully, I am often kept busy at school, with few free periods spent in the staff room, though I find myself wishing I had a few less hours in the classroom and was able to spend my time planning more lessons and activities instead. But, I do work in a fantastically friendly and warm environment, with students who are exceptionally good-natured and fun to teach.

Sports day

I often find the most fulfilling parts of my job are the interactions I have with students. Especially now, in my second year, I'm having more and more "real" conversations beyond the simple "do you like ~?" exchanges that often characterize our communication. This really began to blossom during speech contest this summer, when I spent hours each day, often late into the evening, coaching four wonderful kids on their English pronunciation, intonation, expression and gestures. We found ways to understand each other as we talked about their speeches, but were also able to have lots of conversations about their summer "holidays", club activities, and things they found funny. I felt a lot of pride in my students - I was even a bit emotional when I heard their speeches on speech contest day, and Riho's telling of the story of Freddie the leaf nearly moved me to tears. Oh Freddie. It's a rather existential story of a leaf coming to terms with life and death, and when he finally falls from the tree, he is no longer scared of what is to come. Riho conveyed it so beautifully, and apparently the judges thought so too, as she placed first in the recitation category and was able to move on to the all-Akita round. And she's only a 2nd-year student!

My favourite picture of the bunch. No one quite seems to know what's going on...

Anyway. Lately I've clicked with a bunch of my 3rd-year junior high girls, and we talk about lots of things, from the kind of books we like to the 3-nensei's exclusive "club", Zadoru - a group that is "loud" and often does "girl talk", and the girls get love advice from Naoto, one of the boys who is their appointed leader. This probably all sounds a bit strange, which is because it also sounded strange to me when they first explained the concept of the club one day at lunch. The best part was that they invited me to join, and got excited when I said yes.

Since then, I've had the chance to learn quite a bit about student relationships at my junior high school. It started in one of my 3rd-year classes, when I asked them to guess what I wanted for Christmas. Immediately, Shoh's hand shot up. "It's...a...boyfriend-o!!" he declared confidently. The other boys in the class cracked up; they thought it was so funny that they tried to use the answer again when my JTE (co-teacher) asked them the same question. Through this, I ended up discovering that Shoh has a girlfriend from the other 3rd-year class, and was encouraged to guess who it might be.

"Is it Misato?" I asked my JTE on the way to the other class later that morning.
"No. But, Misato used to be Shoh's girlfriend."
"Ah. Hmm...Is it one of Misato's friends?"
"Yes."
"Is it Mutsumi?"
"No. But, Mutsumi too used to be Shoh's girlfriend."
Turns out the boy has had a lot of girlfriends.

I pondered this as we entered the room, with some speculations as to who his special someone could be. Pretty soon though, class was underway and I forgot about my desire to be in on student gossip.

Eventually, some of the "Zadoru" girls, Mutsumi and Rino, had finished their work, so they called me over and started asking about my Christmas plans, and whether or not I would eat Christmas cake. In Japan, on Christmas, there is a tradition of eating christmas cake, a white sponge cake with strawberries and whipped cream, as well as fried chicken (KFC being a particular favorite). I'm not sure if these are things they think westerners do, or just their own traditions that have somehow evolved, but my students were surprised to learn that we do not eat such "Christmas cake" in Canada, nor do we typically eat KFC. I told them that Christmas cookies are popular instead.

Somewhere in our conversation, to their excitement, they found out that I have a boyfriend. Naoto was sitting behind me, listening in as well, and reacting with overly dramatic interest to every word I said. Perhaps he was just brimming with potential love advice to share. After class, Mutsumi and Rino came up to me and started telling me about their boyfriends.

"My boyfriend is shy!" said Rino.
"My boyfriend is...interesting!" said Mutsumi.

I then remembered my earlier musings. Hmm. "Who are your boyfriends?" I asked.

"My boyfriend is Fuma," said Mutsumi.
"My boyfriend is Shoh," said Rino.
Shoh!! I knew it. Mystery solved.
"Shoh's smile is...very very nice!!" Rino gushed. "But he is crazy!"
"My boyfriend is also crazy. He is silly," I said.
"Is he cool? Is he cute?"
"Yes, of course!"



I stayed and chatted with them until I realized I was going to be late for lunch - with their class. I told them I had to run off and grab my tray, but I would be back. As I was hurrying through the school, food in hand, they came to meet me in the hall - "oh, Katie! Let's go, lunch! Are you hungry?" Yes, of course!

And that made for one of the best days of the week, and possibly the whole month.